Eastcoast outdoors

The “Hobbit Hole” at Pawtuckaway State Park in New Hampshire is a well-known bouldering route tucked into an area of the park often referred to as “Boulder Natural” (or “Gandalf’s Lair”). Rated around V3.

The climb follows a slanting lower crack up and then along a jutting arete, with use of jugs and sideholds to reach the top of the boulder.

Because it’s part of a popular bouldering “zone,” the rock has seen significant traffic, and some climbers note that certain footholds can get smooth or “glassy” with use.

Despite its challenges, Hobbit Hole is prized as one of the more classic lines in Pawtuckaway’s climbing scene.

It sits along a network of boulder problems that range across many styles and grades, so climbers often weave it into a full day of exploration.

Because the setting is deeply forested and often quiet (especially outside peak climbing season), the atmosphere around Hobbit Hole has a somewhat mystical, back in the woods feel that complements the name nicely.

How to Get There:

Drive to Pawtuckaway State Park, use the Reservation Road entrance off Route 156. Follow signs toward the Round Pond / Boulder Field parking area. Park at the Boulder Field lot. This is the main parking area for climbers and hikers heading to the big boulders.

Hike the Boulder Trail. From the lot, follow the Boulder Trail (sometimes called the Round Pond Trail) into the forest. You’ll start seeing large glacial boulders after about 15 to 20 minutes of walking.

Find Boulder Natural (The Zoo). Keep following the main trail until you reach a dense cluster of boulders known as Boulder Natural or “The Zoo.” This is a popular spot for climbers. Look for the Hobbit Hole. The Hobbit Hole is a slanted crack line on one of the larger boulders in this area, it’s usually chalked up from other climbers.

If you see a corridor of tall rocks with names like “Texas Chainsaw Massacre” or “Hobbit Direct,” you’re very close.

Quick Tips: The climb is about V3 difficulty, moderate for bouldering. Bring a crash pad, chalk, and good shoes. The whole hike is short, bout half a mile to a mile each way. The forest around Boulder Natural is shaded, quiet, and feels a little magical, which fits the “Hobbit Hole” name perfectly.

My Thoughts

In my opinion this east coast classic is the perfect entry to the V3 grade. technical, but with decent holds and necessary feet. The start (image 2) is very accessible with a deep crack and a good nub you can fit both feet on tightly and secure. From there, grab the obvious jug-like pocket that you could take a nap off and heel hook above the starting holds for a good transition into the next sequence, match hands in the crack while sliding your right hand as far down as you can and wedge it in the rock. move your feet out to the right and make the crux.

The crux is a bit reachy and requires some decent balance as you have to pull off the next part of the crack (much shallower than the other parts of the crack) to the face. Once you get your feet solid under you after reaching the last part of the crack, it’s a simple few moves to the top out.

Im not exactly sure if the climb is topping out the boulder or stoping where I did (image 3). Either way, that’s the meat of the climb, while the rest is more of a scramble/walk to the top.

The “Hobbit Hole” is one of my all time favorites in all the Boulder Natural area, maybe second to “EZ Cheese” or the obvious well known 4 star classic “Overlooked”.